Friday, 8 February 2013

Loire Trip of Discovery


Setting off early on Monday Morning, Joe, David and myself made quick work of getting to Angers, one of the many historic towns in the Lorie valley, for the Foires des Vin de Loire.

What quickly became apparent when tasting through the opening salvo of wines that had been grouped by region,  is the tremendous diversity that can be found from the Loire. 

When we talk of Terroir, it has to be viewed as an all in one encapsulating factor, it’s not just soil but the differing climatic influences each region feels and this climatic fact is possibly one of the most important factors when determining the quality an styles of the wines from the Loire. 

This possibly accounts for the lack of 1er Cru or Grand Cru vineyards as whilst the individual vineyards give differing styles there is not the same degree of quality levels to be found as a result of differing vineyard sites.
So what did we find?

Domaine Bedouet – Muscadet – organic and thrilling – but can I sell 600bts?
Domaine Gitton Pere et Fils – Sancerre & Pouilly Fume – a re-discovery as I first shipped from here 10 years ago!
Emile Ballande – Coteaux de Gienois & Sancerre – complex and deeply textured
Chateau du Petit Thouars – Touraine Rouge – sensationally well priced but need time
Clos de L’Elu – Anjou Rouge – brilliant modern organic source of reds
Jonathon Didier Pabiot – Pouilly Fume – we already do his basic wine, tasted the amazing top cuvees
Thomas Labaille – Sancerre - we already do his basic wine,  but again tasted the amazing top cuvee
Leduc Frouin – Anjou – good Anjou Blanc, Cremant de Loire and sublime Coteaux du Layon
Eric Louis – brilliant Sauvignon and Pinot Noir from Touraine, Sancerre and Menetou Salon
Seguin – Pouilly Fume – some really good, elegant mineral and classically gun flint styled Fume.

Where did we stay?

Possibly the worst hotel  to date, other than a Thai place I stayed in on Koh San Road back in 1988.  With the aroma than can only be conjured up by chain smoking for 2 days in a very small space, whilst there was an en suite shower, the rest was on par with Pentonville but without the same levels of fear.
Where did we eat?

1st night at the local chain grill which was actually pretty good steak and frites washed down with a faugeres – you can’t do the same wines you’ve been tasting all day!

2nd night –
We got back from a very successful day of tasting and got ready to hit the town.
Taxi duly arrived and dropped us off by the quite amazing Angers Castle and we headed off into town.  40 minutes later and it was getting a bit nippy and I was getting more thirsty and we hadn’t found anything that looked that exciting but that was all to change when  we found a very cool little wine shop – Le Pifometre, 64 Rue Bressigny.

The best way to find out what’s going on when you’re in a new town is find your local independent!  Phillipe, the charming caviste quickly had us sorted, recommending Le Cercle Rouge,  a very cool, slightly messy, rustic wine bar with a belting wine list full of things we’d never come across before………..

A local Presion to kick off, a plate of charcuterie and then a slightly overtly esoteric bottle of “natural” wine from the Jura……

The thing about “natural” wine is most of it is a bit weird and unbalanced and whilst this greatly improved with the meats, it still remained a bit awkward and gawky…..if a wine can be those things!

We had a really good, simple meal with classic rustic French dishes, such as ouef en concotte, potage, terrine de lapin, and filet de mignon de porc.  This was washed down with two wines from Rousillon – one from 2010 Cotes du Rousillon Domaine Gauby and the second 2008 Olivier Pithon Cuvee Lais – both sensational.

So back to one of the world’s worst hotels but at least replete!

The next morning we were up early and drove off to the local Carrefours to load up with French goodies.  As ever I overly stocked up with wines under 5euros and some hopefully brilliant Alsace Grand Cru’s for 8 euros a bottle (!!!) – just think how oggd it would be if they got rid of Duty in the UK….!

Needless to say food was on the agenda too so to accompany the Alsatian I found some delicious looking Choucroute (I’m not sure if my wife will be so appreciative!) and a rabbit, as I love the French farmed rabbit, plus lots of lovely salads, meats etc etc…….

Now I’ll have a few wines from Gitton open to try in the Vineking social in Church street tonight, so come and try these and you’ll see why I’m so excited about the wines..

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