So…here
we are at the Vineking in Weybridge. The glasses are polished, the bottles
open, the wine double decantered and the chef is in the kitchen preparing the
pigeon
We
are about to enjoy the company and the great wines of Giuseppe Vajra. Giuseppe
is the son of one of Piedmonte’s top wine makers, Aldo Vajra, and now works
with him to make some of the best regarded wines in Barolo.
Although
in the family since the 1920’s it was not until 1970 that Aldo began to invest
in the vineyards, increasing the area under vines to the current 40 hectares of
which 10 are dedicated to the Nebiolo grape. Many of the vines are over 50
years old and the vineyards are situated at an altitude of over 400 metres. The
soil and the altitude (and, of course, the skill of the winemaker) combine to
create distinctive wines that are beautifully balanced with the right
combination of fruit and acidity and a freshness that makes them stand out
amongst other Borolos.
Having welcomed everyone with
a great glass of Particello 68 Prosecco from the Bronca sisters, we start the main
event with the 2012 Dolcetto d’Alba.
Giuseppe
suggested that the Dolcetto grape is often considered an ugly duckling in
Piedmonte but he likes to think of it as a moody teenager- it needs constant
attention and showering with love in order to fulfil its potential. This one
certainly did, it was smooth and open on the palate with flavours of berries, violets, cherries and
red fruits. Someone at our table said it reminded him of a Beaujolais Cru! It
was well balanced with refined tannins and lightened by a
fresh acidity.
The second wine was the 2011 Barbera
d’Alba. The grapes for this wine are handpicked and come from 6
vineyards in 3 areas on 2 different soil types, and it is the blend of these
that gives this wine it exceptional balance. On the eye, a deep violet red
colour; on the nose, powerful and rich with dark fruit and a touch of
spice. On the palate, you get the dark
fruit with a clean minerality and a long finish.
Both wines went really well
with the Wood
Pigeon Breast, Candied Walnuts, Beetroot Tastes and Chicory.
The
surprise of the evening for many was the arrival of the next wine. A Pinot
Noir! In fact the 2010 Langhe Rosso PN Q497.
Giuseppe
explained that they wanted to plant Nebiolo in their highest vineyards but were
not allowed to. So, always up for a challenge, they decided to plant Pinot Nero
and the result is fabulous. Good rounded
tannins with great structure and a fine acidity bring out the best of the
fruit. The finish is long, elegant and maintains the red fruit to the end.
Whilst we were enjoying the wines, the next food course arrived. Barbary Duck
Breast, Smoked Bacon & Chive Croquettes, Girolle Mushrooms, Baby Carrots,
Roasted Shallots and a Jus.
To accompany this we were presented
with a 2009 Barolo ‘Le Albe’. Giueseppe explained that the name Nebiolo comes
from the Italian word Nebbia which
means fog. By the time harvest takes place in late October the Langhe region is
covered with a thick fog. As for the wine, it is a blend of three different
vineyards at three different altitudes. The word Albe means sunrise and
Giuseppe made much of the sun rising over the three vineyards.
‘Le Albe’ had a ruby-garnet colour
and a wonderfully exotic nose of dried plums, cherries and floral notes. The
palate showed typical Nebbiolo characteristics, excellent acidity and fine but
persistent tannins coupled with a rich, fleshy texture and a long finish.
Then came the 2009 Barolo
‘Bricco delle Viole’’ This vineyard is the jewel in the crown of the Vajra
properties, situated 400 metres above sea level in the commune of Barolo and
with many of the vines over 50 years old. The altitude and long ripening
period gives the wine an aromatic complexity and ripeness not often found in
Barolo.
The wine has a brilliant deep
ruby red colour with dark berries, orange peel and a hint of rose petals. It
was brilliantly balanced with ripe tannins and dark fruit and a long finish
with a touch of the savoury.
By now the cheese had
arrived. Unfortunately, I had been enjoying the wines so much that I forgot to
take any pictures of the great food until now. Take my word, the food was fab.
Our
special treat for the evening was a taste of the 2007 Barolo ‘Bricco delle
Viole’. Special because there is no more
available and special because it is!
The
wine was full of all things make a great Barolo great. A deep garnet colour with perfumes of dark
cherry and berries tinged with orange peel. It was brilliantly structured with
rounded tannins and smooth acidity brought about by the craftsmanship of the
wine maker and the altitude of the vineyard.
To finish the meal and the
evening Giuseppe shared his 2013 Moscato d’Asti. This accompanied the final
course of the meal, namely Summer Berries, Vanilla Bean Sabayon and a Tuille.
The wine was light,
effervescent and wonderfully fruity, this is one of the most refreshing things
I’ve tasted and went brilliantly with the desert. Passion fruit and stone fruit
on the nose, clean sweetness on the palate, and, at only 5.5% alcohol, no limit
to how many glasses you can have.
A
great end to a great evening. And in the words of Giueseppe’s father
"I
try to make wines that give people joy. In the past wine was a food, it was
necessary for sustenance. Today that is not the case; we choose to drink for
pleasure. I want to make wines that bring people happiness.” ~ Aldo Vajra
