Dinner in Weybridge with Giuseppe Vajra

So…here we are at the Vineking in Weybridge. The glasses are polished, the bottles open, the wine double decantered and the chef is in the kitchen preparing the pigeon

We are about to enjoy the company and the great wines of Giuseppe Vajra. Giuseppe is the son of one of Piedmonte’s top wine makers, Aldo Vajra, and now works with him to make some of the best regarded wines in Barolo.

Although in the family since the 1920’s it was not until 1970 that Aldo began to invest in the vineyards, increasing the area under vines to the current 40 hectares of which 10 are dedicated to the Nebiolo grape. Many of the vines are over 50 years old and the vineyards are situated at an altitude of over 400 metres. The soil and the altitude (and, of course, the skill of the winemaker) combine to create distinctive wines that are beautifully balanced with the right combination of fruit and acidity and a freshness that makes them stand out amongst other Borolos.

Having welcomed everyone with a great glass of Particello 68 Prosecco from the Bronca sisters, we start the main event with the 2012 Dolcetto d’Alba.

Giuseppe suggested that the Dolcetto grape is often considered an ugly duckling in Piedmonte but he likes to think of it as a moody teenager- it needs constant attention and showering with love in order to fulfil its potential. This one certainly did, it was smooth and open on the palate with  flavours of berries, violets, cherries and red fruits. Someone at our table said it reminded him of a Beaujolais Cru! It was well balanced with refined tannins and lightened by a fresh acidity.

The second wine was the 2011 Barbera d’Alba. The grapes for this wine are handpicked and come from 6 vineyards in 3 areas on 2 different soil types, and it is the blend of these that gives this wine it exceptional balance. On the eye, a deep violet red colour; on the nose, powerful and rich with dark fruit and a touch of spice.  On the palate, you get the dark fruit with a clean minerality and a long finish.

Both wines went really well with the Wood Pigeon Breast, Candied Walnuts, Beetroot Tastes and Chicory.

The surprise of the evening for many was the arrival of the next wine. A Pinot Noir! In fact the 2010 Langhe Rosso PN Q497.

Giuseppe explained that they wanted to plant Nebiolo in their highest vineyards but were not allowed to. So, always up for a challenge, they decided to plant Pinot Nero and the result is fabulous.  Good rounded tannins with great structure and a fine acidity bring out the best of the fruit. The finish is long, elegant and maintains the red fruit to the end.

Whilst we were enjoying the wines, the next food course arrived. Barbary Duck Breast, Smoked Bacon & Chive Croquettes, Girolle Mushrooms, Baby Carrots, Roasted Shallots and a Jus.

To accompany this we were presented with a 2009 Barolo ‘Le Albe’. Giueseppe explained that the name Nebiolo comes from the Italian word Nebbia which means fog. By the time harvest takes place in late October the Langhe region is covered with a thick fog. As for the wine, it is a blend of three different vineyards at three different altitudes. The word Albe means sunrise and Giuseppe made much of the sun rising over the three vineyards.

‘Le Albe’ had a ruby-garnet colour and a wonderfully exotic nose of dried plums, cherries and floral notes. The palate showed typical Nebbiolo characteristics, excellent acidity and fine but persistent tannins coupled with a rich, fleshy texture and a long finish.

Then came the 2009 Barolo ‘Bricco delle Viole’’ This vineyard is the jewel in the crown of the Vajra properties, situated 400 metres above sea level in the commune of Barolo and with many of the vines over 50 years old. The altitude and long ripening period gives the wine an aromatic complexity and ripeness not often found in Barolo.

The wine has a brilliant deep ruby red colour with dark berries, orange peel and a hint of rose petals. It was brilliantly balanced with ripe tannins and dark fruit and a long finish with a touch of the savoury.

By now the cheese had arrived. Unfortunately, I had been enjoying the wines so much that I forgot to take any pictures of the great food until now. Take my word, the food was fab.

Our special treat for the evening was a taste of the 2007 Barolo ‘Bricco delle Viole’.  Special because there is no more available and special because it is!

The wine was full of all things make a great Barolo great.  A deep garnet colour with perfumes of dark cherry and berries tinged with orange peel. It was brilliantly structured with rounded tannins and smooth acidity brought about by the craftsmanship of the wine maker and the altitude of the vineyard.

To finish the meal and the evening Giuseppe shared his 2013 Moscato d’Asti. This accompanied the final course of the meal, namely Summer Berries, Vanilla Bean Sabayon and a Tuille.

The wine was light, effervescent and wonderfully fruity, this is one of the most refreshing things I’ve tasted and went brilliantly with the desert. Passion fruit and stone fruit on the nose, clean sweetness on the palate, and, at only 5.5% alcohol, no limit to how many glasses you can have.

A great end to a great evening. And in the words of Giueseppe’s father

"I try to make wines that give people joy. In the past wine was a food, it was necessary for sustenance. Today that is not the case; we choose to drink for pleasure. I want to make wines that bring people happiness.” ~ Aldo Vajra

I, for one, was very happy!